Laguna Torre

Our second full day in El Chalten, Jed and I headed out to Laguna Torre (this time, not mistakenly) a 3-4 hour hike one way that culminates at the lake. The beginning, like any hike in El Chalten, was mostly uphill, but not as bad as the incline to Laguna Capri. After about the first hour or so, the trail became flatter, and you trade off between walking in shady forests, and in pretty desolate meadows. The end of the trail is gravel, ending at the laguna, where we spread out by the water, lounged on rocks, and had a picnic lunch before returning. A recommendation: If it is a hot day like we had, bring lots of water and sunscreen. Make sure to fill up your water bottles at the river you pass when crossing the bridge as it will be the last chance to do so. (Laguna Torre is not as clean as Laguna Capri for drinking). Also, if you want to eat in shade, know that there is no shade after the river bridge, and to plan accordingly.

Natural Reserve and off to El Chalten

Jed and I had one of our first lazy mornings, taking our time for breakfast and packing up our things before heading to the Reserva Natural. It was about a 15 minute walk from our hostel (America Del Sur) to the park where we found out that is was an 1 1/2 hour loop in the park. As it was shortly after 11 and our bus was leaving at 1, we decided to rush through the park, doing the loop in probably 40 or so minutes. The park, famed for its flamingos, unfortunately did not have any at the time we were there. But that didn´t prevent us from enjoying the birds, horses, and gorgeous views of the lakes and mountains. Afterwards, we hurried off to the hostel to collect our backpacks and head to the bus station for our 4 hour ride to El Chalten.

Practical Information: Entrance to the park is 15 pesos. Bus to El Chalten leaves at three points during the day: 830, 1pm, and 630 and is 75 pesos 1 way or 150 roundtrip. The bus ride lasts about 4-5 hours and trips are done along Route 40 with Chalten Travel or CalSur.

Calafate and Perito Moreno Glacier Trekking

After yet enough overnight bus ride from Puerto Madryn to Calafate (with the required layover in Rio Gallegos), Jed and I arrived in Calafate. We spent our first day here exploring the small town and the main Liberatador Avenue with its restaurants and shops and visiting a myriad of travel agencies to try and figure out our best options for glacier trekking and trying to make it down to Torres Del Paine. The following day, we had a 7am departure with Hielo y Aventura to Perito Moreno, the only advancing glacier left in the world, where we boarded a boat to the glacier, outfitted our shoes in spikes, and proceeded to trek on the ice with guides. It was absolutely incredible... the blues reflecting from the glacier, the pristine water, everything... Our group was fortunately small and we ended our trek at a small wooden table on the ice, where our guides poured us cold whiskey for a celebratory toast. Back on land, Jed and I did a picnic lunch on the rocks, overlooking the southern face of the glacier where we were able to witness some unbelievable calving ' or chunks of the ice shaving off and falling into the water. The sounds it produced were a mix of loud thunder and crackling. Afterwards, we took the boat back to the viewing sites where we had the opportunity to view the northern side of the glacier and get a better perspective of just how massive it is.

Today we are heading to another park in Calafate to see the flamingos before boarding our shuttle to El Chaten where we will spend the next four days hiking and camping Fitzroy.


Practical Information: Bus to the Perito Moreno Park is 100 pesos, Boat ride is 50 pesos, and Entrance fee is 100 pesos. Two additional tours are offered which include transportation and the boat ride, but do not include the park entrance fee. The first tour is Minitrekking which is 500 pesos and includes 2 hours of trekking on the ice. The second is Big Ice which is 740 pesos and is only for fit individuals and includes 4 hours of more serious trekking on the ice. Both tours also include an hour in the park for walking to the various viewing points. Prices for these treks are the same everywhere and the only tour operator in the park is Hielo y Aventura. For minitrekking you can wear any sort of sneaker whereas big ice requires trekking shoes and those who don´t have will need to rent them for the day for 40-50 pesos. Clothes: Wear comfortable walking clothes and definitely layer. A windbreaker is crucial. It is really cold on the boat and when you begin, but you will quickly warm up as youre walking along the ice. Also make sure to bring sunscreen, sunglasses, water, and a picnic lunch.

Tour in Peninsula Valdes

Today, Jed and I went on a full day tour to Peninsula Valdes, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and crucial spot for marine mammals, about an hour and a half north of Puerto Madryn. Though we weren´t able to get nearly as close to the animals as we were yesterday at Punta Tumba, it provided a great geographical overview of the area as well as a little preview into each of the animals you can find in the area: elephant seals, sea lions, penguins, and in other months, the rare Southern White Whale and Orcas.

Photos from the day:

Practical information: See Info for previous Punta Tumba tour for car rental and tour information. Tours regardless cost around 180 pesos, not including the per person 70 peso entrance fee (Argentines need pay only 20 pesos). An option for the adventurous is to take the public bus to Puerto Piramides, and from there try hitchhiking. No promises on how that will turn out, but its a cheap option.

Penguins in Punta Tomba

Every year, over half a million Magellenic penguins migrate to the coasts of Argentina to breed, and the largest of these colonies (after Antartica) is located in Punta Tomba, about a 2-2.5 hour drive south from Puerto Madryn. Jed and I, along with three lovely Dutch girls, rented a car to drive to the park yesterday. The journey there, in and of itself, was pretty awesome.. completely flat landscape of sand and short, dry shrubbery - an expanse that looked as if it extended forever.

You are not allowed to eat, smoke, or drink mate within the park, so we had a picnic lunch in the parking lot before entering. The park is comprised of boardwalks and dirt paths where you are literally able to get within feet of the penguins. We took our fair share of penguin photos, beyond ecstatic at our close encounters, until you realize that they are everywhere... literally. A 360 spin will reveal hundreds of thousands of penguins in every direction - waddling across the paths, sleeping in dirt holes, bathing in the sun, swimming in the Atlantic, or huddling under the many bridges you walk across in the park.

Some shots from our day are included below.

Practical information: Renting a car from Puerto Madryn will run you about 350-480 pesos depending on whether it is for 4-5 people (this includes 400 km but if you book from Centaurio Rent a Car and mention Get South (a guide book) you can get an additional 100km free per day. Gas will cost 90-120 pesos roundtrip based on the size of the car and it is just about 400km roundrip, 450km if you plan to make a stop in Playa Union to try and see the dolphins. Entrance fee to the park is 35 pesos per person, unless you are an Argentine national. The park is open from 8am-8pm and takes about 2-2.5 hours to drive there from downtown Puerto Madryn. Other options to get there include: a tour from Puerto Madryn (150-180 pesos, not including park entrance fee.... to get the cheaper price, book directly from the tour agency, not a hostel) or taking the bus to Trelew (10 pesos) and renting a car from there.

Too many hours on buses

After 40+ hours (two overnight buses) and an exciting, yet excruciatingly embarassing winning of bingo on the bus, we are finally in Puerto Madryn. More info to come later. Below are photos from the bus trip. 

Iguazu Falls

A brief smattering of shots from Iguazu. Written update and more photos to come.