Jodi, Adam, and I left La Paz on a 2pm bus to Copacabana. Other than having to get off the bus to embark a small boat to ferry across the lake, and reboarding the bus on the other side (Lonely Planet does not inform you of this, and we thought the bus driver wanted to drive off with all of our bags), the whole trip was pretty uneventful, lasting about 3 hours and offering nice views of Lago Titicaca.
Upon arrival, we checked into Hostal Sonia for a mere 30 bolivianos per person for the night, and though the room was nothing to write home about (the beds are a bit saggy), it was clean, the room had cable tv, and the hostal had a rooftop patio with a gorgeous overlook of the city and lake.
In the morning we took an 8:30 boat to the north side of Isla del Sol (15 bolivianos).
We walked up the hill to some of the historical sites on the north side including the Labrinth and Sacred Rock, and Jodi and I both received Incan blessings from a man atop the hill.
From the northern side you can take a boat to the Southern side, but we opted to walk. It wasn´t easy... the hills and high altitude get to you, but it was definitely worth it and doable for any reasonably in shape person. It took us just over two hours to get to the Southern side where we settled in to a gorgeous hotel overlooking the lake for just 60 bolivianos per person.
Practical notes: Make sure to bring small change with you for the island - you will want to buy cold drinks and snacks along the way, especially if you do the trek from the Northern to Southern side. You will also need about 20 bolivianos to pay random fees along the route - 10 to head up to the sites on the Northern side, and two places along the trail to the Southern end where you will have to pay 5. The boat back to Copacabana leaves at 930 and 1030 in the morning (from opposite sides of the Southern island) and costs 20 bolivianos for the return. I recommend sitting on top or in front of the boat, to avoid the gas fumes. The boat from Copacabana to the Northern side takes about 2 hours and from the Southern side to Copacabana only about an hour and a half.
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